Archive for New York Magazine

These Burgeoning Supermarkets Are a Mirror of Immigrant New York

Source: Grub Street NY

In a time when traditional supermarkets are on the wane, massive so-called ethnic stores like the Asian-focused H Mart and the eclectic Food Bazaar are on a tear, opening new branches around the city and the country (often in the vacant shells of defunct conventional grocery stores). These aren’t the …

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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The Underground Gourmet Digest: The Best New Things to Eat Right Now, Ranked

Source: Grub Street NY

Once a month or so, the Underground Gourmet takes stock of all the excellent (and not so excellent) grub we’ve shoveled down our gullets to bring you this — our slightly random, completely subjective, 100 percent delicious top-ten new things to eat and drink.

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Empellón’s Fruit Plate Takes a Safe Dessert Choice to a Whole New Level

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Source: Grub Street NY

“People don’t eat dessert all that much anymore,” says Empellón’s Alex Stupak. And when they do, they want … fruit plates. For an ambitious kitchen, this can be “soul-crushing.” Rather than give in entirely to the fruit-plate barbarians, Stupak and pastry chef Justin Binnie came up with a rather …

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An Old-world Tonic Gets a Fresh Spin at Brooklyn Bar Honey’s

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Source: Grub Street NY

At most bars, nonalcoholic options run to fruity mocktails and ginger ale. At Honey’s in East Williamsburg, there’s kvass, the ancient Russian beverage and purported health tonic fermented from rye bread. While this Slavic staple might seem an odd thing to stumble across in the wilds of artisanal Brooklyn, it’s …

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For Jean-Georges, Opening Two Restaurants at Once Yields Mixed Results

Source: Grub Street NY

With its roster of soul-­cleansing juices; its breakfast muffins with uplifting names like “Morning Glory”; and its clean, white, vaguely medicinal décor, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s much-praised new veggie palace abcV looks like it’s been almost willfully designed by the great chef to set off alarm bells deep in the heart …

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Public Kitchen’s Popcorn-Cheddar Frico Is a Genius Bit of Fusion Snack Food

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Source: Grub Street NY

Thomas McKenna had never had a frico, the Friulian specialty of fried Montasio cheese, before he put one on the menu at Public Kitchen, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new restaurant at the Lower East Side’s Public Hotel. But he knew the precise texture and flavor he was going for: that addictive …

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Hendu’s Sandwich Shop at Dutch Kills Bar Makes Stupendously Good Heros

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Source: Grub Street NY

Bar food keeps getting better and better, and the bars in which you find it more and more unexpected. Take, for instance, the Long Island City cocktail den Dutch Kills. That is the home of Hendu’s, a one-man sandwich shop that’s been operating out of the bar’s kitchen since …

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Atla Is a Mexican Restaurant Designed For How New Yorkers Eat Now

Source: Grub Street NY

“There’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, …

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Navigating New York’s New Wave of Asian Chain Restaurants

Source: Grub Street NY

A guide to the long lines, often-kooky concepts, and oodles of noodles.

Ikinari Steak
90 E. 10th St. | Low-budget beefsteak. |
Established: Tokyo, 2013; over 100 branches in Japan. | Best known for: No seats: quick turnover (and presumably all that money saved on chair upkeep) equals discounted rib eyes, sirloins, …

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A Taxonomy of Italian Street Food, From Rice Balls to Spaghetti Cones

Source: Grub Street NY

Snacky Italian street food, both traditional and newfangled, is good, cheap, and on the rise. How to tell a trapizzino from a tramezzino and a panzerotto from a fried pizza.

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13 Places to Get Next-Level Soft-serve Ice Cream This Summer

Source: Grub Street NY

Is soft serve finally getting some respect? The World’s Best Pastry Chef (at least according to the publishers of the U.K.’s Restaurant magazine), Dominique Ansel, is a big fan. And so are the owners of the World’s Best Restaurant, Eleven Madison Park‘s Daniel Humm and Will Guidara. …

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Why You Should Think of Breakfast as Happy Hour

Source: Grub Street NY

When Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened abcV in February, he didn’t start by serving dinner. Neither did Anita Jaisinghani at Pondicheri, or Camille Becerra at De Maria, or Fredrik Berselius and Claus Meyer at Norman. All of those chefs began with lunch and, more surprisingly, breakfast, which used to …

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Watching and Lamenting the Death of the New York Diner

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Source: Grub Street NY

There’s a story that a few of the wistful regulars from my old diner, Joe Jr.’s, which used to occupy a narrow little space in the Village on the southeast corner of Sixth Avenue and 12th Street, still like to tell about the time Louie the waiter died of …

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Is Hemp the Next Kale?

Source: Grub Street NY

There is something vaguely illicit about Andrew Whitcomb’s salad at Norman, the all-day canteen at Greenpoint co-workspace A/D/O. It’s not the soft, speckled heirloom lettuces, or the bitter chicories, or the dill oil in the buttermilk dressing, or the lemony sorrel that subs for citrus (just the sort …

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