Tag Archive for Restaurant Review

Pete Wells: Is New York’s Best Pizza in New Jersey?

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Source: NY Times Food

3 stars | At Razza in Jersey City, local buffalo milk and hazelnuts go into pies that can stand up to the best of the five boroughs.

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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For Jean-Georges, Opening Two Restaurants at Once Yields Mixed Results

Source: Grub Street NY

With its roster of soul-­cleansing juices; its breakfast muffins with uplifting names like “Morning Glory”; and its clean, white, vaguely medicinal décor, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s much-praised new veggie palace abcV looks like it’s been almost willfully designed by the great chef to set off alarm bells deep in the heart …

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Atla Is a Mexican Restaurant Designed For How New Yorkers Eat Now

Source: Grub Street NY

“There’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, …

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Pete Wells: Flavors Cross Borders at Little Tong Noodle Shop

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Source: NY Times Food

2 stars | A new Yunnanese restaurant in the East Village uses rice noodles as the neutral backdrop for contrasting tastes from all over Southeast Asia.

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Pete Wells: Vegetables With Benefits at ABCV

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Source: NY Times Food

2 stars | The menu at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new vegetarian restaurant in the Flatiron district tries to impart “plant-based intelligence.”

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Pete Wells: A Chef Dreams in Mexican at Empellón in Midtown

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Source: NY Times Food

3 stars | Alex Stupak’s newest and flashiest restaurant uses familiar dishes as jumping-off points for fantasy versions.

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Pete Wells: At Don Peppe, Expect a Lot of Everything

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Source: NY Times Food

1 star | The hallowed Italian-American restaurant is near the airport and the racetrack in Queens, but it’s in a world of its own.

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TheVietnamese Cooking at Hanoi House Tastes Fresh, Homespun, and Inventive All at Once

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Source: Grub Street NY

I haven’t been back to Vietnam for a few years now, but I imagine that the latest generation of noodle bars and soup shops that have grown up around Hanoi, and in the trendier sections of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), look an awful lot like Ben Lowell and …

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Pete Wells: Some Food, a Plate, a Room. That’s Enough at King, in SoHo.

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Source: NY Times Food

2 stars | Despite the royal name, this small restaurant revels in the simple charms of its confident cooking.

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Pete Wells: New Dumplings to Hunt, by Way of Hong Kong

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Source: NY Times Food

1 star each | A branch of Tim Ho Wan and a chef from Din Tai Fung set up in Manhattan.

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Pete Wells: Pork Is Only the Starting Point at Pig Bleecker

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Source: NY Times Food

1 star | A Greenwich Village sibling of the Brooklyn restaurant Pig Beach impresses with seafood, sandwiches and, running through it all, smoke.

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Pete Wells: The Extras Are the Stars on the Korean Menu at Atoboy

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Source: NY Times Food

2 stars | At his restaurant in NoMad, the chef builds excitement out of banchan, the little plates that usually come free.

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Ichimura Raises Its Prices and Loses Some of Its Charm After Declaring Independence From Brushstroke

Source: Grub Street NY

Not so long ago, Eurocentric chefs, with their haughty accents and bags of elaborate magic tricks, used to dominate the highest, most ethereal levels of the city’s big-money dining scene. But these days, thanks to a new generation of globe-trotting gourmands who prefer the sinful joys of fatty tuna belly …

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Pete Wells: ‘Vegetable Forward’ Chef Gets His Own Patch at Loring Place

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Source: NY Times Food

2 stars | Dan Kluger’s new restaurant in Greenwich Village leans heavily on grains and seasonal produce, evoking his work at ABC Kitchen.

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